A new wine bar and bistro in Swarthmore is proof positive that Swarthmore, after 125 years, is no longer dry, writes Craig LaBan for The Philadelphia Inquirer.

Fortunately, Village Vine is a respectable and appreciated first entry of alcohol in the borough.

Hungry crowds eating under heat lamps in front of the new storefront seemed glad for the experience.

“I grew up here and I’ve been waiting 49 years for this,” said LaBan’s friend and dinner companion, David Haase, 50.

The lifelong Swarthmorean consumed glasses of Txakoli, Turkish rose and Lebanese Merwah while enjoying  raclette-gratinéed fingerling potatoes, crispy-skinned ocean trout in lobster nage, and a slow-braised pork cheek.

Village Vine has a smart selection of international wines, from Austrian Blaufrankisch (Hopler Pannonica) to Portuguese Alentejo (Azamor)  and Seneca Lake dry Riesling (Empire Estate).

Co-owners Jill Bennett Gaieski, a University of Pennsylvania anthropologist and Lori Knauer, a retired attorney with DuPont; both studied at the Wine School of Philadelphia. They put their studies into practice opening the restaurant and getting Swarthmore’s first downtown liquor license.

Their chef is another Swarthmorean, Chris Galbraith, 36, an alum of Bar Hygge. His mostly Euro-style plates are wine-friendly.

Read more of Craig LaBan’s review in The Philadelphia Inquirer.

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